A "slew" of owls is really called a parliament. Make your own by following the simple steps below... |
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a miniature owl figurine out of clay
Step 1. Roll out a small ball of clay, and put a dent on top to form the ear tufts.
The owls I've been making are tiny, which is what makes them so darn cute. They range from 1/2 inch to two inches tall, but you can make them any size. Start by rolling out a small ball of clay, then use your finger to press a dent into the top to form the ear tufts...
A marble-sized ball of clay makes about a 3/4 inch tall owl, and a small superball-sized ball of clay makes about a 1 3/4 inch tall owl. Experiment with different sizes. |
Step 2. Press both pinky fingers into the clay near the top dent to make the facial discs.
Try to make the discs even, but don't go crazy if they are slightly off. You can always even out the clay later, or let them go as is--uneven eyes often give the owl more character...
This is a superball-sized ball of clay. If you want to make a tinier owl using a marble-sized ball of clay, use the eraser on the tip of a pencil to make the facial discs. |
You can already start to see the shape of an owl emerging! |
Press the flat end of a craft knife or other clay tool into the facial discs you created with your pinkies...
Step 4. Create the feathers in the facial discs.
Representations of owls often have radiating lines surrounding the eyes. We have learned to look for this clue when identifying iconic owl shapes, so go ahead and create those lines. It's easy to do with a loop tool. Start in one place and work your way around. After you've gone around once, go back again to scruff it up a bit...
As soon as you add textured lines to the facial disc, the shape is even more recognizable as an owl! |
First roll out a tiny ball. It should be smaller than a pea. Next, using a craft knife, cut the ball in half. Each half will be an eye on the owl. Roll each half into a ball and wet the halves down a bit...
To create two equally sized eyes, split one ball in half. |
Wet each tiny eye with water from a spray bottle so it will adhere to the center of the facial disc. Place the eye with your fingertip. Once the eye is in place, tamp it down with the end of a craft knife or other clay tool...
Gently place the eye in the center of the facial disc. Make sure the tiny ball of clay is wet so it adheres well. Tamp it down with the flat end of a clay tool when you're happy with its placement. |
Small indentations help create the look of chest feathers and further define the front of the owl. These can be as variable as you wish. I use the curved and tapered end of a small loop tool and press gently into the clay while supporting the back of the owl. It's easy to press too hard and throw the shape of the owl out of whack. You can create a precise pattern or a random arrangement. I usually prefer random, but I like to follow the contour of the facial disc because that helps to separate the face from the body. It also helps intensify the illusion of a beak...
Step 8. Form the wings (optional step).
If you want your owl to have wings, make them using your thumb print! Simply press your thumb into a small ball of clay to flatten it out. Then trace out your thumbprint and give it a little flare at the top and finish with a straight line. Cut the wing out with a crafting knife...
For these miniature owls, your thumbprint is the perfect size for a wing! |
After you flatten the ball of clay to the proper thickness, trace out your thumbprint. Flare it out at the end a bit and square off the top. |
Again...wings on these miniature owls are optional. I only put wings on about 1/3 of my owls. The design does not require them, but it's fun to add the extra detail. To adhere a wing, first "score" the surface. Scoring helps one piece of clay stick to another. If you don't score the surface, the addition might fall off during firing. To score clay, use either a clay needle, a craft knife, or a pencil to rough up the surface. Then wet down the scored areas, and stick the wing on the owl...
Scoring the surface of the clay will help one piece of clay stick to another. Be sure to use a little water to help "cement" the pieces together. |
Place the wet, scored wing on the owl and position it properly. The water helps you move the clay around a little until you find the perfect place. |
Take a few swipes along the flat end piece to blend it into the body. Do not blend in the part of the wing that is in front. |
It can take up to two weeks for a solid clay figurine to dry completely (just because it's dry on the outside does not mean it's dry on the inside). Once it dries, it can be bisque fired. Bisque firing changes the clay into ceramic material. When it comes out of the kiln, it will be hard and white...and ready for glazing.
Whooooo are you? Our little owl needs to sit and dry. It can take up to two weeks. |
Go crazy with the glazes and mix them up. I used a combination of all the browns, golds, and beiges to create depth. Some of the designs are based on real owls, while others are pure imagination and use only iconic shapes and clues to let you know it's an owl.
Step 12. Fire it again.
Once you've glazed the piece, fire it again. This final firing will melt the glaze (powdered glass suspended in water) and fuse it to the bisqueware. After the glaze firing, your little owl is finished!
By putting a small hole in the top, you can hot glue in a ribbon or a leather strip to make a Christmas tree ornament or a necklace! For Halloween you can hang several owl ornaments on a dead branch in a vase or on a little Halloween tree for a bird lover's cute seasonal decoration.
These cute little owls make great Christmas tree ornaments. The tiniest owls look really cute on a necklace as well. |
For other easy step-by-step clay projects with a birdy theme, click here.
For this project, I used low-fire clay and Colors for Earth translucent glazes.